Then off to the Makgadikgadi pans and a tented camp set on a cliff overlooking a river where we watched the zebra and elephants coming to drink.At times herds of up to 200 zebra gathered at the riverbank waiting their turn to get to the water, there seems to be a strict pecking order with a continual switch over of animals taking a much needed drink. Their excitement was evident as they galloped to the water at their turn.

The next day we visited the national park and apart from the usual game there were a number of lions. It was explained to us that we could get close to them as they only saw the vehicle and neither saw nor smelt people inside. Also in our 2 nights here we had a sunset river cruise with a couple of g and t's which is becoming habitual, here they call it a sun-downer.

From there we headed north to the Zambian border. We spent our last night in Botswana near Nata at a place called elephant sands and was it aptly named. A very sandy area where elephants in the vicinity came to drink the brackish water from a reduced waterhole.We felt sorry for them as there were always 20 to 30 around trying to glean some water.They were naturally upset and fractious. As the camp site was next to the water and full of elephants we thought we would book into one of the lodges. Not too salubrious and then in the night we heard the elephant against the lodge breaking the water pipe to get a drink. Poor things,

Crossed into Zambia the next day at a chaotic crossing. A main crossing with lots of cars and lorries with only a pontoon taking one car and one lorry at a time. The lodge we are staying in for 3 nights here though is wonderful. There are 4 managers and 42 staff for 7 double occupancy cabins of which only 3 are full. Hence the service and standards are exceptional. The continuation of the sunset river launches but on the Zambezi. Crocodiles and hippos in the river but it is only the latter the guides are very wary of and give a wide berth to.
Have also had the land rover serviced mid trip so all seems good to go on from here.

As we are near to Livingstone we went to the Victoria falls which were fairly empty of water on the Zambian side as it is the last month of the dry season here. So decided we would cross the border into Zimbabwe as the falls are always more dramatic there. They certainly were and it is the only time we have crossed a border and been in no man's land on foot. As we were in Zim decided to visit the old colonial Victoria Falls hotel for afternoon tea. The tea was fine but the cocktail was better.

As you can see I did not take this picture so take no responsibility for it being so bad..

Today explored Livingstone and its excellent railway museum. Loads of old steam engines made in the UK for Rhodesian Railways, some absolutely huge to cope with the distances here. Finished the day with another sundowner on the Zambezi as our last R and R day before hitting the road north.

Here are a few pics that should have come with the blog but it is now 6 in the morning and I seem to have the local internet to myself so may be luckier in sending them.

A perfect campsite with views to the horizon.

Not the best Leopard photo but our first find..

Sue has retreated to the car prior to her hasty escape to the elephant proof ablution block. He looks smaller here than he was, believe me.

An over view of the Okavango delta showing why driving here is such a challenge. The wet bits are very wet and the rest is deep sand.

Finally back in the world of internet connectivity, albeit rather slow so this will be a bit picture lite which is a shame as we have seen so much in the last few days.

From Shakawe we headed north into the Caprvi Strip, which is back into Namibia but it feels different to the rest of the country. It's roads are dotted with small villages formed of traditional mud huts and the vegetation is much more lush due to its proximity to the Zambezi and Okavango  rivers.

We spent two nights at a very remote community run camp site on the banks of the Kwando river, 17km from the nearest road through deep sand and forest trails. We were lulled to sleep each evening by the sound of Hippos snuffling around our vehicle. Despite their immense size their noise is very relaxing and we both got used to it very quickly. Luckily for a Dutch couple also trying to reach the camp we happened upon them stuck fast in deep sand with their Toyota. We towed then the remaining 8km toi the site where they extended their stay to two nights so they could convoy out with us to the main road.

From Nabwa we crossed the border back into Botswana to visit and camp in Chobe National park. Botswana safety standards are so different from Namibia. We stayed in an unfenced camp site with game wandering through at will, but it was a great experience. We took a long drive along the Chobe river bank to the small town of Kasane to top up on fuel and supplies, we returned by the same route seeing so many animals; a vast herd of buffalo, all sorts of antelope and even a leopard.This has to be the best trip to the shops ever. Sue also had her first experience of very deep sand driving with the added feature of crocodiles to the right and buffaloes to the left, digging out would have been out of the question but she was a star.

From Chobe we set off on what must be one of the toughest legs of the journey south to Linyanti and on eventually to the Okavango delta. These 6 days of camping were totally self sufficient as there is no infrastructure which means we had to take all our food and fuel for the time we were in the Chobe and Moremi. Most people who come here fly into the lodges, very few drive the harsh sand roads between, basically a few south Africans and fewer Europeans which means we basically had vast areas to ourselves. It is harsh driving and on 3 days we travelled almost a 100 miles on sand ridges, The camp sites are basic with about 10 sites each with their own fire pit and braii, one shower and loo for the women and the same for the men. In heat of almost 40 a cool shower in the afternoon is quite refreshing.
The elephants rule here and whilst driving it is too dangerous to divide a herd, They wander through the camps and in Savuti camp a lone bull elephant was around when we made a veg curry. As soon as this was served the elephant crashed into our site. I was already eating so hurried to finish the meal in the car. Colin had already lost his to the elephant so hurried for the video. As the elephant proceeded to knock over the table and made for the pans we decided I had better take my meal to the ablutions to finish as elephants have been known to turn over a vehicle in search of food (particularly apples and oranges) and curry has a strong smell. I have never walked so quickly whilst trying not to run, finished the meal and washed the plate and fork thoroughly to avoid enticing it again. Colin had meanwhile made a hasty retreat as the elephant proceeded to turn to him. Quite a terrifying experience really as they are just so huge and powerful. The other animals to be wary of mainly hunt at night so once in the roof tent it is inadvisable to leave until first light.

Our final destination on the delta was Moremi, a tough drive by any standards, but well worth it. This is the unspoilt, untouched Africa of dreams. Virtually unvisited by road with only one small campsite in the whole region it is uninhabited except by a fantastic array of wildlife and birds. The delta delivers a vast flood to what would otherwise be desert and the fertility of the region makes for exceptional wildlife viewing. We took a boat trip through the delta and shared the narrow channels with elephants wading chest deep to feast on Papyrus and saw antelopes who are adapted to live in this swampy environment.

Arriving in the town of Maun, albeit quite small came as quite a culture shook after being so remote but we found solace in a small aircraft flight to get an overview of the delta and glimpse a last view of the rich wildlife from the air.

A couple more days at Etendeka, mountain hikes in the mornings and game drives in the afternoon. We saw another larger pride of lions and the rare black rhino, albeit at quite a distance.
On from there we headed north east to Etosha. On the first evening in the lodge it was surprisingly cold, it has been the only time our fellow diners were in ski wear, including the ear warmers, they were obviously better prepared then us.  They all must have researched Namibia better, we just thought Africa it will be quite warm. Nice to be in the quieter, restricted western part of Etosha first, spent the second night in the middle closer to the pan. Saw masses of wild life, many elephants, the black rhino at the floodlit waterhole.  At one water hole literally hundreds, probably a thousand, zebra, although the big cats eluded us. It was warming up again too.

Leaving Etosha we headed east again towards the Botswanan border, a distance of 297 miles on roads that could be described as interesting. The border is close to the Kalahari and is the area the indigenous Bush people have been allowed to settle and live their lives in the traditional manner if they wish.. There has been some intermarriage but lovely to see the golden faces with high cheekbones, almost reminiscent of the Mongolians. We stayed on their land that evening in the shadow of an enormous Boab tree, no facilities but charming although pleased we didn't hear the hyena in the night when we were shown their tracks the following morning.

A short journey to the border, which was just a couple of huts, and then into Botswana, another long drive, 230 miles, where the already interesting gravel road became more of a cart track, it really feels as though we have got away from the tourist routes and the adventure steps up a notch.. Drove to the lodge by the Okavango river and this morning have been on a boat ride wonderful birds, bee eaters, kingfishers and fish eagles to mention only a few. And of course enormous crocodiles who all took to the water towards us as we passed.

 It is so different from Namibia, green and with water which means bugs too so the malarial tablets have to be started. Its also getting a lot hotter, a more humid heat than even the hot days in the desert.

Further north and inland we go through Damaraland. Very arid semi desert with enormous rock formations turning to blood red in the sunset. These formations also had  the early Bushman,s paintings and engravings. They date from 6000 to 2000 years old and are all most fascinating.

 Its also getting very hot now, well into the 30's and we camped for 4 nights through this area, the first site only had a toilet but in the next 3 we had our own basin, toilet and shower, the hot water  morning and evening being provided by a donkey boiler. All individual sites too, luxury camping!

Now in northern Damaraland and staying in an elegant tented lodge, all meals and drinks provided. The drive into the mountain camp itself took an hour but it was superb. Not only were we rewarded with immediate sightings of giraffe, mountain zebra,oryx, springbok and kudu but the 17 km track was a fantastic off-road route through fabulous scenery and at times quite challenging, off-roading doesn't get better than crawling down a rocky route into a drying river bed to discover a herd of zebra grazing at the bottom.

They are lucky here that they have some springs in the area so it attracts the wild animals and they remain. A game drive in the evening resulted in us seeing lots of the animals already mentioned plus 3 rare desert elephants (one being a young one), a pride of lions and 3 cheetahs, It was amazing.

This morning a dozen or more kudu clattered next to the tent and we heard lions during the night, it has become a real safari. We also took a long walk through the local mountains, seeing fascinating rock formations and mineral deposits everywhere.

Just like London buses, a long wait then two at once. This is the first decent wifi we have had so far so a bit more catching up.

From Fish River canyon we headed up to Aus. A one horse, one shop town but with a decent camp site where we stayed in a hobbit hut built into the rock face. The usual warnings about snakes and mice entering the hut but thankfully neither did, well not that we saw. We were woken in the night by something jumping on the roof and running across, don't know what but it was big and agile.

Aus was the base for the 60m trip in Luderitz. A quaint colonial town with German style houses painted in bright colours but the highlight was visiting Kolmanskoop, a deserted diamond mining town that is being buried beneath the encroaching sands. It was quite an experience to walk inside the houses, some still with coloured wall paper and seeing them half filled with sand and the signs of desert creatures.

From here we moved up to Namtib, a former farmstead now purporting to be a bioshpere reserve. Well we saw little wildlife here except some baboons but it was a splendid isolated desert camping experience. It is amazing how quickly one adapts to an environment, we both were surprised that we took a three hour walk in the desert and through a valley far from any other humans, and still felt totally safe.

From Namtib we again headed North and closer to the coast, staying just inside the gates of the National Park. This gave us the chance to be on the road at 06.20 to race to the dunes of  Sossusvlei to watch the sunrise change the dunes into a host of colours. Well that is what the guide books said, it was pretty cool but a tad short of the hype. We did, however, get to share this magical place with just one other couple and four ostriches.

We next headed further north to the coastal towns of Walvis Bay and Swakoptmund. On the way recrossing the Tropic of Capricorn,

The journey was long and not helped by the badly corrugated roads for most of the route. We did travel through some pretty impressive scenery on the way and on arrival were rewarded by a wildlife wonder. Walvis bay lagoon is home to hundreds of flamingoes and they strut their stuff just feet from the promenade.

Today, being Sue's birthday she opted for a boat trip to see pelicans, seals and dolphins. Two out of three isn't bad, no dolphins but unexpectedly to all two humpbacked whales pitched up and put on a show by the boat. A perfect birthday present for any girl.

Tomorrow we are heading up towards Damaraland, a more remote rugged part of the country so we expect to be far from wifi and mobile signals for a few days but we will be in touch when we can.

upon leaving Bagatelle game lodge we decided to take an alternate scenic route via Olliphant river (well beside a dry river bed and a lot of the time in the dried up river bed!). a good route and mid afternoon arrived at Mata Mata, a Transfrontier game reserve in South Africa. We were camping and I have never been so cold, it is dry here and the taste of dust is in your throat but the weather has mainly been the bright cold reminiscent of ski ing. Saw a lot of game, herds of springbok and wilder-beast, ostrich, jackals, kudo and oryx but unfortunately the black maned Kalahari lion escaped us.

PHOTO Kalahari bushmen taking us to their village.

Moved back to Namibia and camped overnight not as cold in a superb bush camp with only one loo and a shower activated by lighting a fire behind it but the scenery was stunning, quiver trees amid dolomire rocks resembling a lost city. Only one other couple in the camp.
The next day, the opposite accommodation, a luxury chalet room as part of a lodge overlooking the fish river canyon. Superb views and at dark (which is 6pm here) the stars can be seen from the room. A mixture of nationalities but the majority of the 6 couples here are South African. Had a walk along the ridge for a way and the following day took a Jeep into the canyon right down to the small water pools remaining with their cat fish. it hasn't rained here this year so everything very dry.

that is up to date as on the 3rd September and hoping for internet access soon.