Sunday, 6 October 2013

Finally back in the world of internet connectivity, albeit rather slow so this will be a bit picture lite which is a shame as we have seen so much in the last few days.

From Shakawe we headed north into the Caprvi Strip, which is back into Namibia but it feels different to the rest of the country. It's roads are dotted with small villages formed of traditional mud huts and the vegetation is much more lush due to its proximity to the Zambezi and Okavango  rivers.

We spent two nights at a very remote community run camp site on the banks of the Kwando river, 17km from the nearest road through deep sand and forest trails. We were lulled to sleep each evening by the sound of Hippos snuffling around our vehicle. Despite their immense size their noise is very relaxing and we both got used to it very quickly. Luckily for a Dutch couple also trying to reach the camp we happened upon them stuck fast in deep sand with their Toyota. We towed then the remaining 8km toi the site where they extended their stay to two nights so they could convoy out with us to the main road.

From Nabwa we crossed the border back into Botswana to visit and camp in Chobe National park. Botswana safety standards are so different from Namibia. We stayed in an unfenced camp site with game wandering through at will, but it was a great experience. We took a long drive along the Chobe river bank to the small town of Kasane to top up on fuel and supplies, we returned by the same route seeing so many animals; a vast herd of buffalo, all sorts of antelope and even a leopard.This has to be the best trip to the shops ever. Sue also had her first experience of very deep sand driving with the added feature of crocodiles to the right and buffaloes to the left, digging out would have been out of the question but she was a star.

From Chobe we set off on what must be one of the toughest legs of the journey south to Linyanti and on eventually to the Okavango delta. These 6 days of camping were totally self sufficient as there is no infrastructure which means we had to take all our food and fuel for the time we were in the Chobe and Moremi. Most people who come here fly into the lodges, very few drive the harsh sand roads between, basically a few south Africans and fewer Europeans which means we basically had vast areas to ourselves. It is harsh driving and on 3 days we travelled almost a 100 miles on sand ridges, The camp sites are basic with about 10 sites each with their own fire pit and braii, one shower and loo for the women and the same for the men. In heat of almost 40 a cool shower in the afternoon is quite refreshing.
The elephants rule here and whilst driving it is too dangerous to divide a herd, They wander through the camps and in Savuti camp a lone bull elephant was around when we made a veg curry. As soon as this was served the elephant crashed into our site. I was already eating so hurried to finish the meal in the car. Colin had already lost his to the elephant so hurried for the video. As the elephant proceeded to knock over the table and made for the pans we decided I had better take my meal to the ablutions to finish as elephants have been known to turn over a vehicle in search of food (particularly apples and oranges) and curry has a strong smell. I have never walked so quickly whilst trying not to run, finished the meal and washed the plate and fork thoroughly to avoid enticing it again. Colin had meanwhile made a hasty retreat as the elephant proceeded to turn to him. Quite a terrifying experience really as they are just so huge and powerful. The other animals to be wary of mainly hunt at night so once in the roof tent it is inadvisable to leave until first light.

Our final destination on the delta was Moremi, a tough drive by any standards, but well worth it. This is the unspoilt, untouched Africa of dreams. Virtually unvisited by road with only one small campsite in the whole region it is uninhabited except by a fantastic array of wildlife and birds. The delta delivers a vast flood to what would otherwise be desert and the fertility of the region makes for exceptional wildlife viewing. We took a boat trip through the delta and shared the narrow channels with elephants wading chest deep to feast on Papyrus and saw antelopes who are adapted to live in this swampy environment.

Arriving in the town of Maun, albeit quite small came as quite a culture shook after being so remote but we found solace in a small aircraft flight to get an overview of the delta and glimpse a last view of the rich wildlife from the air.





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