Just a quick addition to the last blog, two photos taken during the journey from our wild camp to Chipata through the National Park. This herd stretched for over a mile.
Friday, 25 October 2013
Zambia
Exploring Zambia.
Before leaving Livingstone and the wonderful Waterberry Lodge we visited the railway museum which was brilliant with some ancient British built steam engines on display and went on an early morning walking safari to see the white rhinos.
There are only 8 in Zambia now and 6 are in the Mosi o Tunya park area. They were very heavily guarded by armed patrol but good to stand close to.
Then to two lodges for two nights each in the Kafue national park which is the size of Belgium. At the first lodge we were the only two staying and it was a little run down but lovely to have two cheetahs patrolling the perimeter. On the evening game drive there we sat and drank our sundowner gin and tonic next to a pack of around eight wild dogs and we left them as they got up to hunt, quite an experience. On the way to the other lodge we had another elephant incident, we stopped to let the ellie cross the track as it was intending to do and it started turning in circles before bending to charge us - did we drive through quickly!. The only downside with Kafue is that there are tetse flies and they happen to find me (Sue) very tasty, I picked up around 50 bites but reassuringly it is only in Uganda they still apparently carry sleeping sickness.!!
Down to the lower Zambezi along a road," Leopard's Hill", that even here is described as not recommended, it was interesting at the top over the escarpment but some of the hairpin bends on the way down tested vehicle and driver to the limits. Thankfully we came through OK but did have to do a bit of road repairs to get through some gulleys and in the temperatures here of 38 to 40.. At the Lower Zambezi we stayed at a lovely campsite by the river with hippos, crocs and a multitude of lovely birds and unfortunately one elephant that decided it didn't want us there and semi charged us. We have gone off elephants big time, they are the only animal here to have been aggressive to us and they are too big to mess with. To make the return journey more manageable we cut the camping there by a day and decided to head off to Lake Kariba where we stayed at a lovely site at Siavonga beside the lake and ate in the restaurant, it was like being on holiday in the Caribbean.
A long drive from there through Lusarka to South Luangwa staying one night at a camp site enroute just to beak the journey, around 500 miles in total. The people in Zambia are, as expected, quite poor and probably often hungry. Their diet is maize and apart from the capitol they live in villages, round huts with thatched roofs, the women normally have a baby on their back and a plastic container on their head either full of water just drawn from the well or a bag of maize or a bowl with washing. Their older children, probably from the age of 5 are often carrying water on their head too. Their clothing is a top and a long colouful skirt but shoes are rare. Education is trying to make an impact here and the children are always seen walking to and from school in their uniforms but they cannot all afford to buy the uniform so there are many poor little ones in rags who have no education. Interestingly they are actually more pleasant when you pass with waves and smiles.
The lodge where we stayed in South Luangwa for 2 night is one of the luxury safari lodges in Zambia. It was superb and on our game drives we saw leopard with 2 young cubs and one older cub and a pride of 22 lions, many of them cubs who were calm and full having recently killed a young hippo.
From there we headed north in the park under our own steam again, seeing 200 grey crowned cranes, a pride of 6 lions lying next to a recent buffalo kill and 12 wild dogs, not to mention zebra, puko, impala and kudu on our own game drive to our next resting place. This was a bush camp for the 2 of us away from everyone. I have to admit I was a little concerned, actually the word terrified comes to mind, not least because it gets dark here at 6pm and although there is a big fire you are in your tent by 7pm and cannot get out then until dawn at 5am..We have bush camped before in Namibia but that has less animals, and far less predators. It wasn't too bad as the noises in the night were quite light and, huge relief, we were not visited by elephants. But decided again to reduce the daily mileage by splitting the journey into two so we would cut our 2 nights to 1 and drove back through the national park to the border with Malawi. The drive was amazing, we again saw the huge flock of Cranes but then got really lucky, spotting a vast heard of buffaloes moving through the park, this is only a guess but the must have been several thousand animals in the herd, the dust they raised could be seen for miles. At the back of the herd we spotted a pack of wild dogs hunting, looking for any opportunity to make a kill. In all the confusion they appeared to take a small animal, probably a Warthog then fought over it right in front of us.
We knew we were watching something special as the BBC was parked next to us filming the scene.The programme is meant to be screened in 2 weeks and if it is seen by anybody before our return we would be grateful to anyone who could record it for us. We find it incredible locals cycle through this park to bring supplies to their villages.
We are now at the border town of Chapata planning to cross into Malawi tomorrow morning.
Before leaving Livingstone and the wonderful Waterberry Lodge we visited the railway museum which was brilliant with some ancient British built steam engines on display and went on an early morning walking safari to see the white rhinos.
Then to two lodges for two nights each in the Kafue national park which is the size of Belgium. At the first lodge we were the only two staying and it was a little run down but lovely to have two cheetahs patrolling the perimeter. On the evening game drive there we sat and drank our sundowner gin and tonic next to a pack of around eight wild dogs and we left them as they got up to hunt, quite an experience. On the way to the other lodge we had another elephant incident, we stopped to let the ellie cross the track as it was intending to do and it started turning in circles before bending to charge us - did we drive through quickly!. The only downside with Kafue is that there are tetse flies and they happen to find me (Sue) very tasty, I picked up around 50 bites but reassuringly it is only in Uganda they still apparently carry sleeping sickness.!!
Down to the lower Zambezi along a road," Leopard's Hill", that even here is described as not recommended, it was interesting at the top over the escarpment but some of the hairpin bends on the way down tested vehicle and driver to the limits. Thankfully we came through OK but did have to do a bit of road repairs to get through some gulleys and in the temperatures here of 38 to 40.. At the Lower Zambezi we stayed at a lovely campsite by the river with hippos, crocs and a multitude of lovely birds and unfortunately one elephant that decided it didn't want us there and semi charged us. We have gone off elephants big time, they are the only animal here to have been aggressive to us and they are too big to mess with. To make the return journey more manageable we cut the camping there by a day and decided to head off to Lake Kariba where we stayed at a lovely site at Siavonga beside the lake and ate in the restaurant, it was like being on holiday in the Caribbean.
A long drive from there through Lusarka to South Luangwa staying one night at a camp site enroute just to beak the journey, around 500 miles in total. The people in Zambia are, as expected, quite poor and probably often hungry. Their diet is maize and apart from the capitol they live in villages, round huts with thatched roofs, the women normally have a baby on their back and a plastic container on their head either full of water just drawn from the well or a bag of maize or a bowl with washing. Their older children, probably from the age of 5 are often carrying water on their head too. Their clothing is a top and a long colouful skirt but shoes are rare. Education is trying to make an impact here and the children are always seen walking to and from school in their uniforms but they cannot all afford to buy the uniform so there are many poor little ones in rags who have no education. Interestingly they are actually more pleasant when you pass with waves and smiles.
The lodge where we stayed in South Luangwa for 2 night is one of the luxury safari lodges in Zambia. It was superb and on our game drives we saw leopard with 2 young cubs and one older cub and a pride of 22 lions, many of them cubs who were calm and full having recently killed a young hippo.
From there we headed north in the park under our own steam again, seeing 200 grey crowned cranes, a pride of 6 lions lying next to a recent buffalo kill and 12 wild dogs, not to mention zebra, puko, impala and kudu on our own game drive to our next resting place. This was a bush camp for the 2 of us away from everyone. I have to admit I was a little concerned, actually the word terrified comes to mind, not least because it gets dark here at 6pm and although there is a big fire you are in your tent by 7pm and cannot get out then until dawn at 5am..We have bush camped before in Namibia but that has less animals, and far less predators. It wasn't too bad as the noises in the night were quite light and, huge relief, we were not visited by elephants. But decided again to reduce the daily mileage by splitting the journey into two so we would cut our 2 nights to 1 and drove back through the national park to the border with Malawi. The drive was amazing, we again saw the huge flock of Cranes but then got really lucky, spotting a vast heard of buffaloes moving through the park, this is only a guess but the must have been several thousand animals in the herd, the dust they raised could be seen for miles. At the back of the herd we spotted a pack of wild dogs hunting, looking for any opportunity to make a kill. In all the confusion they appeared to take a small animal, probably a Warthog then fought over it right in front of us.
We knew we were watching something special as the BBC was parked next to us filming the scene.The programme is meant to be screened in 2 weeks and if it is seen by anybody before our return we would be grateful to anyone who could record it for us. We find it incredible locals cycle through this park to bring supplies to their villages.
We are now at the border town of Chapata planning to cross into Malawi tomorrow morning.
Saturday, 12 October 2013
Then off to the Makgadikgadi pans and a tented camp set on a cliff overlooking a river where we watched the zebra and elephants coming to drink.At times herds of up to 200 zebra gathered at the riverbank waiting their turn to get to the water, there seems to be a strict pecking order with a continual switch over of animals taking a much needed drink. Their excitement was evident as they galloped to the water at their turn.
The next day we visited the national park and apart from the usual game there were a number of lions. It was explained to us that we could get close to them as they only saw the vehicle and neither saw nor smelt people inside. Also in our 2 nights here we had a sunset river cruise with a couple of g and t's which is becoming habitual, here they call it a sun-downer.
From there we headed north to the Zambian border. We spent our last night in Botswana near Nata at a place called elephant sands and was it aptly named. A very sandy area where elephants in the vicinity came to drink the brackish water from a reduced waterhole.We felt sorry for them as there were always 20 to 30 around trying to glean some water.They were naturally upset and fractious. As the camp site was next to the water and full of elephants we thought we would book into one of the lodges. Not too salubrious and then in the night we heard the elephant against the lodge breaking the water pipe to get a drink. Poor things,
Crossed into Zambia the next day at a chaotic crossing. A main crossing with lots of cars and lorries with only a pontoon taking one car and one lorry at a time. The lodge we are staying in for 3 nights here though is wonderful. There are 4 managers and 42 staff for 7 double occupancy cabins of which only 3 are full. Hence the service and standards are exceptional. The continuation of the sunset river launches but on the Zambezi. Crocodiles and hippos in the river but it is only the latter the guides are very wary of and give a wide berth to.
Have also had the land rover serviced mid trip so all seems good to go on from here.
As we are near to Livingstone we went to the Victoria falls which were fairly empty of water on the Zambian side as it is the last month of the dry season here. So decided we would cross the border into Zimbabwe as the falls are always more dramatic there. They certainly were and it is the only time we have crossed a border and been in no man's land on foot. As we were in Zim decided to visit the old colonial Victoria Falls hotel for afternoon tea. The tea was fine but the cocktail was better.
As you can see I did not take this picture so take no responsibility for it being so bad..
Today explored Livingstone and its excellent railway museum. Loads of old steam engines made in the UK for Rhodesian Railways, some absolutely huge to cope with the distances here. Finished the day with another sundowner on the Zambezi as our last R and R day before hitting the road north.
The next day we visited the national park and apart from the usual game there were a number of lions. It was explained to us that we could get close to them as they only saw the vehicle and neither saw nor smelt people inside. Also in our 2 nights here we had a sunset river cruise with a couple of g and t's which is becoming habitual, here they call it a sun-downer.
Have also had the land rover serviced mid trip so all seems good to go on from here.
As we are near to Livingstone we went to the Victoria falls which were fairly empty of water on the Zambian side as it is the last month of the dry season here. So decided we would cross the border into Zimbabwe as the falls are always more dramatic there. They certainly were and it is the only time we have crossed a border and been in no man's land on foot. As we were in Zim decided to visit the old colonial Victoria Falls hotel for afternoon tea. The tea was fine but the cocktail was better.
Today explored Livingstone and its excellent railway museum. Loads of old steam engines made in the UK for Rhodesian Railways, some absolutely huge to cope with the distances here. Finished the day with another sundowner on the Zambezi as our last R and R day before hitting the road north.
Sunday, 6 October 2013
Here are a few pics that should have come with the blog but it is now 6 in the morning and I seem to have the local internet to myself so may be luckier in sending them.
A perfect campsite with views to the horizon.
Not the best Leopard photo but our first find..
Sue has retreated to the car prior to her hasty escape to the elephant proof ablution block. He looks smaller here than he was, believe me.
An over view of the Okavango delta showing why driving here is such a challenge. The wet bits are very wet and the rest is deep sand.
Finally back in the world of internet connectivity, albeit rather slow so this will be a bit picture lite which is a shame as we have seen so much in the last few days.
From Shakawe we headed north into the Caprvi Strip, which is back into Namibia but it feels different to the rest of the country. It's roads are dotted with small villages formed of traditional mud huts and the vegetation is much more lush due to its proximity to the Zambezi and Okavango rivers.
We spent two nights at a very remote community run camp site on the banks of the Kwando river, 17km from the nearest road through deep sand and forest trails. We were lulled to sleep each evening by the sound of Hippos snuffling around our vehicle. Despite their immense size their noise is very relaxing and we both got used to it very quickly. Luckily for a Dutch couple also trying to reach the camp we happened upon them stuck fast in deep sand with their Toyota. We towed then the remaining 8km toi the site where they extended their stay to two nights so they could convoy out with us to the main road.
From Nabwa we crossed the border back into Botswana to visit and camp in Chobe National park. Botswana safety standards are so different from Namibia. We stayed in an unfenced camp site with game wandering through at will, but it was a great experience. We took a long drive along the Chobe river bank to the small town of Kasane to top up on fuel and supplies, we returned by the same route seeing so many animals; a vast herd of buffalo, all sorts of antelope and even a leopard.This has to be the best trip to the shops ever. Sue also had her first experience of very deep sand driving with the added feature of crocodiles to the right and buffaloes to the left, digging out would have been out of the question but she was a star.
From Chobe we set off on what must be one of the toughest legs of the journey south to Linyanti and on eventually to the Okavango delta. These 6 days of camping were totally self sufficient as there is no infrastructure which means we had to take all our food and fuel for the time we were in the Chobe and Moremi. Most people who come here fly into the lodges, very few drive the harsh sand roads between, basically a few south Africans and fewer Europeans which means we basically had vast areas to ourselves. It is harsh driving and on 3 days we travelled almost a 100 miles on sand ridges, The camp sites are basic with about 10 sites each with their own fire pit and braii, one shower and loo for the women and the same for the men. In heat of almost 40 a cool shower in the afternoon is quite refreshing.
The elephants rule here and whilst driving it is too dangerous to divide a herd, They wander through the camps and in Savuti camp a lone bull elephant was around when we made a veg curry. As soon as this was served the elephant crashed into our site. I was already eating so hurried to finish the meal in the car. Colin had already lost his to the elephant so hurried for the video. As the elephant proceeded to knock over the table and made for the pans we decided I had better take my meal to the ablutions to finish as elephants have been known to turn over a vehicle in search of food (particularly apples and oranges) and curry has a strong smell. I have never walked so quickly whilst trying not to run, finished the meal and washed the plate and fork thoroughly to avoid enticing it again. Colin had meanwhile made a hasty retreat as the elephant proceeded to turn to him. Quite a terrifying experience really as they are just so huge and powerful. The other animals to be wary of mainly hunt at night so once in the roof tent it is inadvisable to leave until first light.
Our final destination on the delta was Moremi, a tough drive by any standards, but well worth it. This is the unspoilt, untouched Africa of dreams. Virtually unvisited by road with only one small campsite in the whole region it is uninhabited except by a fantastic array of wildlife and birds. The delta delivers a vast flood to what would otherwise be desert and the fertility of the region makes for exceptional wildlife viewing. We took a boat trip through the delta and shared the narrow channels with elephants wading chest deep to feast on Papyrus and saw antelopes who are adapted to live in this swampy environment.
Arriving in the town of Maun, albeit quite small came as quite a culture shook after being so remote but we found solace in a small aircraft flight to get an overview of the delta and glimpse a last view of the rich wildlife from the air.
From Shakawe we headed north into the Caprvi Strip, which is back into Namibia but it feels different to the rest of the country. It's roads are dotted with small villages formed of traditional mud huts and the vegetation is much more lush due to its proximity to the Zambezi and Okavango rivers.
We spent two nights at a very remote community run camp site on the banks of the Kwando river, 17km from the nearest road through deep sand and forest trails. We were lulled to sleep each evening by the sound of Hippos snuffling around our vehicle. Despite their immense size their noise is very relaxing and we both got used to it very quickly. Luckily for a Dutch couple also trying to reach the camp we happened upon them stuck fast in deep sand with their Toyota. We towed then the remaining 8km toi the site where they extended their stay to two nights so they could convoy out with us to the main road.
From Nabwa we crossed the border back into Botswana to visit and camp in Chobe National park. Botswana safety standards are so different from Namibia. We stayed in an unfenced camp site with game wandering through at will, but it was a great experience. We took a long drive along the Chobe river bank to the small town of Kasane to top up on fuel and supplies, we returned by the same route seeing so many animals; a vast herd of buffalo, all sorts of antelope and even a leopard.This has to be the best trip to the shops ever. Sue also had her first experience of very deep sand driving with the added feature of crocodiles to the right and buffaloes to the left, digging out would have been out of the question but she was a star.
From Chobe we set off on what must be one of the toughest legs of the journey south to Linyanti and on eventually to the Okavango delta. These 6 days of camping were totally self sufficient as there is no infrastructure which means we had to take all our food and fuel for the time we were in the Chobe and Moremi. Most people who come here fly into the lodges, very few drive the harsh sand roads between, basically a few south Africans and fewer Europeans which means we basically had vast areas to ourselves. It is harsh driving and on 3 days we travelled almost a 100 miles on sand ridges, The camp sites are basic with about 10 sites each with their own fire pit and braii, one shower and loo for the women and the same for the men. In heat of almost 40 a cool shower in the afternoon is quite refreshing.
The elephants rule here and whilst driving it is too dangerous to divide a herd, They wander through the camps and in Savuti camp a lone bull elephant was around when we made a veg curry. As soon as this was served the elephant crashed into our site. I was already eating so hurried to finish the meal in the car. Colin had already lost his to the elephant so hurried for the video. As the elephant proceeded to knock over the table and made for the pans we decided I had better take my meal to the ablutions to finish as elephants have been known to turn over a vehicle in search of food (particularly apples and oranges) and curry has a strong smell. I have never walked so quickly whilst trying not to run, finished the meal and washed the plate and fork thoroughly to avoid enticing it again. Colin had meanwhile made a hasty retreat as the elephant proceeded to turn to him. Quite a terrifying experience really as they are just so huge and powerful. The other animals to be wary of mainly hunt at night so once in the roof tent it is inadvisable to leave until first light.
Our final destination on the delta was Moremi, a tough drive by any standards, but well worth it. This is the unspoilt, untouched Africa of dreams. Virtually unvisited by road with only one small campsite in the whole region it is uninhabited except by a fantastic array of wildlife and birds. The delta delivers a vast flood to what would otherwise be desert and the fertility of the region makes for exceptional wildlife viewing. We took a boat trip through the delta and shared the narrow channels with elephants wading chest deep to feast on Papyrus and saw antelopes who are adapted to live in this swampy environment.
Arriving in the town of Maun, albeit quite small came as quite a culture shook after being so remote but we found solace in a small aircraft flight to get an overview of the delta and glimpse a last view of the rich wildlife from the air.
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