Monday, 25 November 2013

We've made it to Arusha, Tanzania.

So, here we are at Rivertrees, Arusha. Our final port of call so aside from a trip to the National Park to view Kilimanjaro we are almost done.

Our arrival in Tanzania was quite spectacular. The area was very lush and green with almost tropical vegetation. Quite a contrast to Malawi, and the road from the border ran along a high ridge with deep valleys dropping to both sides with distant mountain views on each side. Our first impression was that Tanzania seemed more developed than Zambia and Malawi but not as overcrowded.

We made a couple of stops at camp sites to break the long journey from the border to the Ruaha National Park, our first real destination. The second of these camp sites was a bit of a gem catering for the overlander market and run by a formidable Ex-pat English woman called Nicola. It was spotlessly clean and very efficient, quite a change really. There we met two Dutch overlanders with whom we shared a fireside chat and cuppa. They told us of the bandit dressed in army uniform who had stopped tourists on the road into Ruaha  and that a shot had been fired. Nicola told us that it was becoming a problem and had happened twice in three weeks. So it was with some trepidation we set of along the rough and lonely road to Ruaha the following morning. Sue held binoculars so we could check out any likely looking types standing by the road. As it happened the worst thing about the journey was the heavily corrugated road that shook us to pieces. As one guy said, its like a reverse assembly line, your vehicle ends up in pieces.

Ruaha wasn't the most wildlife intensive park but interesting nonetheless and we did find a pride of lions on our way to the camp. In fact they were just 200 meters from the lodge along the river bank so no surprise when we heard them roaring in the night. The park did have a lot of giraffes which were nice to see again as they are not present in Malawi at all.

This guy knows how to pose for a photo.

We left Ruaha on the same route with a similar degree of caution and made it to Iringa where we camped for the night. Then followed 2 days of long driving, over 200 miles a day with a stop in Dodoma, the capital, on the way. The second day was really interesting as we were in the Masai Steppe and from here there have been Maasai in their colourful clothing herding their stock all along the route. The road from Dodoma was a real treat, no attempt to improve it so it was very rough but through countless villages with glimpses of everyday life and wonderful mountain views.



Maasai cattle herder.

Then we reached Tarangire which is rich in wildlife and the animals are easier to spot as the landscape is more open savannah. We had been booked into a special campsite for 2 nights there which basically means that you spend the night in an open space with no facilities miles from anyone apart from the animals. Once it is dark (at 7pm) you sit by the fire for about an hour and then go into the tent, not daring to leave until daylight due to the number of predators. I did sleep but lightly and intermittently mainly fearing a herd of elephants foraging around us although to be fair they had seemed calmer here than in previous countries. I also remembered those wildlife programmes where lions jump on the car bonnet. Luckily it was only jackals and general scuffling from some nocturnal beasts that we heard, well apart from some load roaring in the middle distance. Being on Frazer Island in Australia with the dingoes was a piece of cake compared to this. I was not too sorry when it started to rain the following afternoon and as it was our last night of camping and we didn't want to pack a wet tent etc. we booked into a lodge, getting a great last minute rate.

Our wilderness camp site inside Tarangire 

A reminder we did not have the place to ourselves.

Then onto to Ngorongoro crater which is absolutely brilliant. An enchanting place and again the wildlife is brilliant and so easy to spot, not only due to the openness of the landscape but the animals are so unafraid of cars they act as though you are not there. Very few people drive independently into the crater so when you do it is a curiosity to the other tourists as well as the game vehicle driver/guide. When a woman drives the curiosity increases and with some malevolence from some of the driver/guides too.

The hotel we stayed in there was a time capsule. Built in 1969 the interior design was all perfect 1960's harmony and it had at the time been built with no expense spared. It is a gem and every bedroom overlooks the crater. We couldn't understand how it wasn't full as opposed to nearly empty as it not only has the best views of any hotel being the first to be built on the rim of the crater, it is also the cheapest.



Arrival at Ngorongoro Crater

Ready for the descent road into the crater,
We felt sad to be leaving the crater as we both loved it and it felt like the end of our trip. We journeyed to Arusha where we have spent today in their national park enjoying the flamingoes and seeing different monkeys, the blue and the colobus. Unfortunately Kilimanjaro was invisible due to the low clouds as the rainy season is now under way. Overlanders or self-drivers seem to be a bit of a novelty here so we have been upgraded at our final lodge to a fabulous suite of rooms that Prince Charles used when he visited Arusha. 

We have been very lucky with the weather overall though and with everything really, the only problems we have had apart from angry elephants have been minor ones with the car. Well I say minor ones, it did break down in the crater again as the relay is all but shot. Fortunately Colin could repair it enough for the long ascent and the next part of the journey. 

One of the things I will really miss about Africa, and there are several, are the vast array of colourful birds but the car journeys covered in dust I won't miss. Overall though it has been a brilliant trip, thoroughly enjoyed by both of us and we feel very lucky to have had such a great experience.





Monday, 18 November 2013

Farewell to Malawi


We spent part of the last day in Tongole watching elephants coming to the river in front of our chalet, bathing and drinking. The young ones were very cute swimming in the river with only their trunks above water like periscopes. They were a good distance away for me to watch and enjoy. We also had a canoe down the crocodile river at sunset which was excellent.



 Not all roughing it, a bit of luxury


. The only guests were us and a couple from Argentina so largely had the place to ourselves. Poaching still continues in Malawi and one morning we heard shots close to the lodge and it took the rangers an hour to respond as they insisted on finishing their breakfast first. In collusion or afraid - anybody's guess.

From the wilderness area we headed to Makuzi beach for 2 nights.

It is a beautiful location in a bay with wooded hills around and little thatched umbrellas but we are really not beach people so decided, despite the 38 heat, to have a walk to some missionary graves. Many missionaries died of malaria mostly in their twenties, until the mission moved to Livingstonia. Swimming was a little tempting but belhazia is not so we avoided that too. We had a long chat to the manager, he had suffered malaria eight times in the four years he has been there, glad we have the pills.

We then headed north again and climbed to over 7000 feet and the Nyika plateau. The journey up to it was stunning but unfortunately for us the Land Rover was in 'limp home mode', which meant it had about 25% power at best, so it took ages, uphills were first gear in low box most of the time. It was a relay problem and Colin sorted it whilst there, well we thought he had.

The Nyika plateau is stunning, resembling the North Yorkshire moors around Bowes Moor on the A66 to the Lakes with the fells in the background but with pockets of thick woodland and boggy areas. It has the animals of Africa, zebra, warthog, serval, leopard, civit, eland, reedbuck, bushbuck and roan antelope but looking very incongruous in a European scenery. Apart from the animals there are over 400 bird species and 200 orchids (12 endemic to this region) which are just starting to bloom. It is superb.



We also had our own cook and chalet attendant so were completely looked after, a lovely log fire to come back to after the game drives and a 3 course dinner served to us. For some reason they thought it was my birthday and made a delicious chocolate cake.


Had a practise at fly fishing in one of the small dams and really enjoyed it. The only other visitor there was a young Norwegian who had been studying in Malawi and decided as he hadn't a car to explore the area he would walk across the hills to Livingstonia, a journey of 2 night canping on the way. He had expected only an armed guard as in Malawi you cannot walk in the wilderness without one. On the morning of his departure there were 6 people accompnying him, the armed guard with a fully automatic rifle M16 and the others acting as porters for the tents, the sleeping bags, the food, the water, the metal folding chairs and the shower !! It resembled Livingstone going off on one of his expeditions and if we hadn't been travelling 237 miles that day to the Tanzanian border we would have stayed to take photos.


The journey down from the plateau was fantastic, the scenery was breath-taking We descended almost 7000 feet and gained stunning views across Lake Malawi. The last two thousand feet is dealt with in little over two miles of hairpin bends, some strewn with broken down lorries that had failed to make the climb.


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Wednesday, 6 November 2013

Malawi, the warm heart of Africa

Leaving Zambia behind we headed over the border and into Malawi. We immediately noticed the number of people everywhere, all along the roadside there are children walking to and from school, women carrying babies on the back and water on their head, men on cycles loaded with charcoal or rushes, even children as young as 3 are walking beside the road, roadside sellers of fruits and lots of small markets selling vegetables, clothes and spare cycle tyres.  Zambia  was busy with people but Malawi seems to exceed it by far and everyone seems to be by the roadside.
 Typical busy market.

We travelled to the south of the country, through the old capital of Zomba and onto a tea plantation. Spent a couple of nights in the former colonial home of the tea owner which is now a hotel. It was lovely to be able to walk freely as there are no wild animals and to play croquet on the lawn and visit the factory for tea-tasting. Quite an experience.

 Tea pickers at Satwema

From there we moved to the south of lake Malawi and caught a boat to the small Mumbo Island, We thought we would be bored to death there for 2 days but it was surprisingly relaxing kayaking and snorkling in the sunshine.The lake was a little rough for the return trip but the manager assured us the skippers are very experienced and so we set off and within 5 minutes the skipper was sitting on the floor of the boat looking decidedly sea sick and our waiter was at the wheel! It didn't inspire confidence as the boat pitched around but we landed OK with the skipper taking over the helm to bring us ashore.
Our Island hiseaway.


Heading north again, around 160 miles we stayed at a pottery by the lake where every piece was chipped and the lake by this time bore all the resemblance to the grey seas of home, even with the white crested waves. Then came the first rains in a very heavy downpour and the street was suddenly full of soaking schoolchildren having been sent home as most of their lessons are on benches under trees. It seems the rainy season is almost upon us so travel plans may have to be a bit flexible if we are to avoid a Camel Trophy experience.

We are now in another wildlife wilderness and in a very luxurious lodge again but it is a comparatively new national park with only one road in and many trees so the animals are well concealed. Having seen so many animals during this trip and not wishing to see another elephant anyway that's fine with us.

Malawi has offered us the most diversity of  interest since Namibia, with its incredible lake; forest scenery; and mountains too.

Friday, 25 October 2013

Wild Dogs hunting buffalo

Just a quick addition to the last blog, two photos taken during the journey from our wild camp to Chipata through the National Park. This herd stretched for over a mile.


Zambia

Exploring Zambia.

Before leaving Livingstone and the wonderful Waterberry Lodge we visited the railway museum which was brilliant with some ancient British built steam engines on display and went on an early morning walking safari to see the white rhinos.


There are only 8 in Zambia now and 6 are in the Mosi o Tunya park area. They were very heavily guarded by armed patrol but good to stand close to.

Then to two lodges for two nights each in the Kafue national park which is the size of Belgium. At the first lodge we were the only two staying and it was a little run down but lovely to have two cheetahs patrolling the perimeter. On the evening game drive there we sat and drank our sundowner gin and tonic next to a pack of around eight wild dogs and we left them as they got up to hunt, quite an experience. On the way to the other lodge we had another elephant incident, we stopped to let the ellie cross the track as it was intending to do and it started turning in circles before bending to charge us - did we drive through quickly!. The only downside with Kafue is that there are tetse flies and they happen to find me (Sue) very tasty, I picked up around 50 bites but reassuringly it is only in Uganda they still apparently carry sleeping sickness.!!

Down to the lower Zambezi along a road," Leopard's Hill", that even here is described as not recommended, it was interesting at the top over the escarpment but some of the hairpin bends on the way down tested vehicle and driver to the limits. Thankfully we came through OK but did have to do a bit of road repairs to get through some gulleys and in the temperatures here of 38 to 40.. At the Lower Zambezi we stayed at a lovely campsite by the river with hippos, crocs and a multitude of lovely birds and unfortunately one elephant that decided it didn't want us there and semi charged us. We have gone off elephants big time, they are the only animal here to have been aggressive to us and they are too big to mess with. To make the return journey more manageable we cut the camping there by a day and decided to head off to Lake Kariba where we stayed at a lovely site at Siavonga beside the lake and ate in the restaurant, it was like being on holiday in the Caribbean.

A long drive from there through Lusarka to South Luangwa staying one night at a camp site enroute just to beak the journey, around 500 miles in total. The people in Zambia are, as expected, quite poor and probably often hungry. Their diet is maize and apart from the capitol they live in villages, round huts with thatched roofs, the women normally have a baby on their back and a plastic container on their head either full of water just drawn from the well or a bag of maize or a bowl with washing. Their older children, probably from the age of 5 are often carrying water on their head too. Their clothing is a top and a long colouful skirt but shoes are rare. Education is trying to make an impact here and the children are always seen walking to and from school in their uniforms but they cannot all afford to buy the uniform so there are many poor little ones in rags who have no education. Interestingly they are actually more pleasant when you pass with waves and smiles.

The lodge where we stayed in South Luangwa for 2 night is one of the luxury safari lodges in Zambia. It was superb and on our game drives we saw leopard with 2 young cubs and one older cub and a pride of 22 lions, many of them cubs who were calm and full having recently killed a young hippo.

From there we headed north in the park under our own steam again, seeing 200 grey crowned cranes, a pride of 6 lions lying next to a recent buffalo kill and 12 wild dogs, not to mention zebra, puko, impala and kudu on our own game drive to our next resting place. This was a bush camp for the 2 of us away from everyone. I have to admit I was a little concerned, actually the word terrified comes to mind, not least because it gets dark here at 6pm and although there is a big fire you are in your tent by 7pm and cannot get out then until dawn at 5am..We have bush camped before in Namibia but that has less animals, and far less predators. It wasn't too bad as the noises in the night were quite light and, huge relief, we were not visited by elephants. But decided again to reduce the daily mileage by splitting the journey into two so we would cut our 2 nights to 1 and drove back through the national park to the border with Malawi. The drive was amazing, we again saw the huge flock of Cranes but then got really lucky, spotting a vast heard of buffaloes moving through the park, this is only a guess but the must have been several thousand animals in the herd, the dust they raised could be seen for miles. At the back of the herd we spotted a pack of wild dogs hunting, looking for any opportunity to make a kill. In all the confusion they appeared to take a small animal, probably a Warthog then fought over it right in front of us.

We knew we were watching something special as the BBC was parked next to us filming the scene.The programme is meant to be screened in 2 weeks and if it is seen by anybody before our return we would be grateful to anyone who could record it for us.  We find it incredible locals cycle through this park to bring supplies to their villages.

We are now at the border town of Chapata planning to cross into Malawi tomorrow morning.

Saturday, 12 October 2013

Then off to the Makgadikgadi pans and a tented camp set on a cliff overlooking a river where we watched the zebra and elephants coming to drink.At times herds of up to 200 zebra gathered at the riverbank waiting their turn to get to the water, there seems to be a strict pecking order with a continual switch over of animals taking a much needed drink. Their excitement was evident as they galloped to the water at their turn.


The next day we visited the national park and apart from the usual game there were a number of lions. It was explained to us that we could get close to them as they only saw the vehicle and neither saw nor smelt people inside. Also in our 2 nights here we had a sunset river cruise with a couple of g and t's which is becoming habitual, here they call it a sun-downer.

From there we headed north to the Zambian border. We spent our last night in Botswana near Nata at a place called elephant sands and was it aptly named. A very sandy area where elephants in the vicinity came to drink the brackish water from a reduced waterhole.We felt sorry for them as there were always 20 to 30 around trying to glean some water.They were naturally upset and fractious. As the camp site was next to the water and full of elephants we thought we would book into one of the lodges. Not too salubrious and then in the night we heard the elephant against the lodge breaking the water pipe to get a drink. Poor things,


Crossed into Zambia the next day at a chaotic crossing. A main crossing with lots of cars and lorries with only a pontoon taking one car and one lorry at a time. The lodge we are staying in for 3 nights here though is wonderful. There are 4 managers and 42 staff for 7 double occupancy cabins of which only 3 are full. Hence the service and standards are exceptional. The continuation of the sunset river launches but on the Zambezi. Crocodiles and hippos in the river but it is only the latter the guides are very wary of and give a wide berth to.
Have also had the land rover serviced mid trip so all seems good to go on from here.

As we are near to Livingstone we went to the Victoria falls which were fairly empty of water on the Zambian side as it is the last month of the dry season here. So decided we would cross the border into Zimbabwe as the falls are always more dramatic there. They certainly were and it is the only time we have crossed a border and been in no man's land on foot. As we were in Zim decided to visit the old colonial Victoria Falls hotel for afternoon tea. The tea was fine but the cocktail was better.
As you can see I did not take this picture so take no responsibility for it being so bad..

Today explored Livingstone and its excellent railway museum. Loads of old steam engines made in the UK for Rhodesian Railways, some absolutely huge to cope with the distances here. Finished the day with another sundowner on the Zambezi as our last R and R day before hitting the road north.



Sunday, 6 October 2013

Here are a few pics that should have come with the blog but it is now 6 in the morning and I seem to have the local internet to myself so may be luckier in sending them.


A perfect campsite with views to the horizon.

Not the best Leopard photo but our first find..

Sue has retreated to the car prior to her hasty escape to the elephant proof ablution block. He looks smaller here than he was, believe me.

An over view of the Okavango delta showing why driving here is such a challenge. The wet bits are very wet and the rest is deep sand.